Looking for support? You have landed in the right place! There are many ways to get help with Bliss-Box products. Here you will find many links for help including the online manual. We understand not everyone learns the same way, so we try to make getting help easy.
Forums: A platform that is fading away but still the main go to for many can be found here.
Discord: Currently the most active support option for Bliss-Box, many users are quite simply the best you will find on subject matter. If nothing else just jump in and talk and you will get almost instantaneous answers. Invite link here.
Twitter: Simple yet effective check us out here.
Facebook: Mostly used for reading the latest news but also simple enough for support, find us here.
YouTube: Many of you just want to see how it’s done. At this time our YouTube is small but it is growing. We are looking for anyone interested in making videos. Our channel is here.
Email: If all else fails, or you just want to reach out, there is always email support. Email us here.
Blog: Looking for a good blog, we have that right here.
Distribution: Interested in distributing? Use our distribution form.
Integration: Interested in using Bliss-Box’s tech with your software or hardware, you can! The Bliss-Box technology has both a software and hardware API. Learn about those here.
Or simply take a gander at our online manuals.
This manual is written for Firmware 3.0
The 4-Play and Gamer-Pro use HID (Human Interface Device). No drivers are needed or recommended. For firmware updates and tools see the Download Section. The 4-Play and Gamer-Pro do not natively support Xinput. It can do so however, with the use of 3rd party software (ie. x360ce or Xoutput). There is also two products that do this. The Bridge now available has an Xinput output option and the A.I.R (in production) will we a Hardware solution that allows Xinput nativity. Although a power supply can be used on the 4-Play, it is not required. A 12v power supply is completely optional and simply allows the HUB to be self-powered and supplies additional power for a stronger Playstation Force Feedback effect. It is important to note that Force Feedback will still work correctly without it. The Game-Pro and GPjr support Force Feedback on all capable controllers accept the Playstation . If you wish to use the Playstation with the Gamer-Pro, an additional in-line adapter will be needed to use the rumble feature. This adapter is available for purchase. It is not requires on the BlisSter or GPA.
API documentation can be found here
Bliss-Box 4-Play and Gamer-Pro Features
- Full Emulation: A wide variety of controllers are fully supported right out of the box. This includes even complex features like the Sony Playstation 2's pressure sensitive buttons or the Sega Dreamcast's VMU. The Compatibility List shows everything currently supported. This list is periodically updated and amended as we expand the Bliss-Box' s capabilities.
- Multi-platform: Use your 4-Play/Gamer-Pro on almost any modern operating system. The 4-Play and Gamer-Pro work on Windows, OSX, Linux, Raspberry Pi, most all Android device. It even works on some consoles, see the firmware options in the download section. You can also couple this adapter with the Bridge or go total;y retro with any controller.
- Plug & Play: The 4-Play and Gamer-Pro do not need software or drivers to be installed by the user. Simply plug it in and select your emulator, game, and controller. A configurable API is available for greater options.
- Hot Swap This feature makes it easy to switch between controllers in mid-game. If Auto Pause is enabled (default setup) The 4-Play/Gamer-Pro will pause your game while you switch, and you can continue playing when you're ready. The new controller is detected automatically. When a controller is unplugged it auto presses start for you, so you all need to do is unplug it.
- Easy-Upgradable Firmware: The 4-Play/Gamer-Pro can be quickly updated via USB with a firmware file and the software from our website. This allows new features and controllers to be added painlessly. On the 4-Play Each controller port has its own firmware chip so multiple firmware versions can be used if desired.
- Global Button Mapping: Starting with 3.0 this layout has changed for modern gaming. Please note that 2.0 mapping is not the same. The 4-Play/Gamer-Pro's internal button mapping is set up so that buttons on different controllers match each other's layouts as closely as possible. This makes Hot Swapping more intuitive. For additional details, see the layouts at the end of this doc.
- Alternative Mapping: The global mapping now has an alternative layout for c/x l/r configs. See details below (Global button mapping and layouts.). There are a total of 4 internal layouts that can be stored and configure in the firmware. Only 2 are used at the moment. This is not the custom alternative mapping, it's native to the firmware.
- Force Feedback and rumble: Controller rumble works on a wide variety of controllers. The currently supported rumble controllers are the Nintendo 64, Nintendo GameCube, Sony Playstation , Sony Playstation 2, and the Sega Dreamcast. The Gamecube racing wheel supports force feedback steering. Note GP and GPjr require a combo fix.
- Single-Player Mode: The 4-Play can be switched to Single-Player Mode. This will allow for some advance features like using the 4-Play on an Xbox with special firmware, or up-linking to other future Bliss-Box add-on accessories (i.e. Bliss-Box Bridge adapter). It makes the 4-Play a Gamer-Pro.
- Auto Pause: When the adapter senses the controller has become unplugged, it presses the start button (often pause).
- Hotkey: Pressing and holding START will trigger a Hotkey combo. You may configure this combo for a hot key in front-ends like Retro Arch. The default hotkey is set to no hot key. To use this feature set it in the API.
- Native Support: The 4-Play and Gamer-Pro have the ability to allow communication from the emulated game directly to the controller and back with any of the supported controllers (N64, Gamecube, Playstation, partial Dreamcast). A developer could in theory send the calls from the controller directly to the API and get the data back natively. This is shown in the API.
- Port Naming: Each port can now be named a player. A special USB ID is saved for each port and the USB is named "4-Play/GP PORT.x" Where x equals the player you specified. This is despicably useful on the 4-Play but will work on any Bliss-Box adapter.
- Save to EEPROM: The 4-Play can save all of your features per port. You can see your saved setting by using the API Tool. This also works with the Gamer-Pro..
- Developer API: Both the 4-Play and the Gamer-Pro have an API with which emulator developers can communicate directly with and transfer data. This allows native support for advanced features. For example, developers can use the API to see exactly which controllers are currently connected to the 4-Play or Gamer-Pro for displaying on the screen or automatic custom remapping. Also native support for saving to the controller's attached memory card or even write images to the Dreamcast controller's LCD screen. Support for the GameCube's Gameboy Advanced Link can be added, and the emulators can talk directly to the controller bypassing directX. The possibilities are endless. An API tool is also available on the download page. With this tool you may turn on and off the configurable features listed below.
- LLAPI (Low Level API). In addition to the developer API , 3.0 now has a wire to wire mode for getting data and controlling the Bliss-Box. This is simply done over the existing USB wires and can be used with other devices. The first device to utilize this is the Bridge. An add-on that allows the Bliss-Box to work on many consoles. The second device to take advantage of this LLAPI is the ever-growing MiSTer. The MiSTer can use the Bliss-Box in LLAPI mode and directly poll controllers with no USB involved. An upcoming product to use this is the A.I.R. Taking Bliss-Box tech to a wireless level.
Programmable Features of the 4-Play and Gamer-Pro where applicable.
- Auto Pause Disabled: Turns on and off auto pause feature.
- D-Pad to Analog or (UDLR) mode: This mode shifts the directional controller buttons from HAT to analog.
- Analog to D-pad: (deprecated in 3.0) This mode was added for retro arch. This mode maps d-pad only controllers to buttons instead of default mapping to analogs. 3.0 does this anyways. Use UDLR to get back to analog.
- Turbo Mode: Any of the main buttons (i.e. b,a,x,y,l,r) can now be put in turbo mode with two speeds fast and custom.
- D-pad Only: This is a read only mode and it cannot be set. This mode will turn off when any analog movement is seen. It simply tells you if you are using a controller with no analogs. Used for API integration.
- Button Mapping: The API tool allows alternative mappings. There are presets for Sony Playstation 3, Xbox 360, Android, and default. You may also make your own presets.
- Button Swapping and rotation: This mode allows any two pairs of buttons to be swapped, or the 4 face buttons to be rotated.
- Hotswap Disabled: Using this feature may have undesirable effects. This will prevent auto searching for controllers (hotswap). To switch to another controller, a reset will be needed.
- Disable all combo buttons: From the API you can now ( api:2.8.4 Firmware:3.24_2) disable the combo button that enable and disable modes. Once active and saved, you must undo this change to get the combos features back.
- Force mode: From the API you can force special modes. Like a way to disable a port on the 4-Play or to force in to Arcade mode and not detect other modes.
Button codes for programmable features.
- D-Pad-(UDLR) Mode: Left trigger + Right Trigger + select or Z(for n64 pads) (hold for 3 seconds) For controllers like DC that have no select use start. (Also can be turned on via the API Tool)
- Turbo Mode: To enable turbo on any of the main buttons (i.e. b,a,x,y,l,r) press the button you wish to toggle and while leaving it pressed, do one of the following. The default mode is fast mode 35 shot.
Press start 3 times to enable turbo on that button. To disable repeat the same operation.
Press start 4 times to set the fast turbo mode, 35 shots a second (28ms appart).
Press start 5 times to set the slow turbo mode, enters a custom mode (set in the API). Unset is 100 ms the range is 1-254.
- Button Swapping and rotation: To activate the rotation of 4 face buttons; press the 4 face buttons then press start for 2 seconds. Repeat to rotate again. To activate a button swap (you may do two pairs) press any two buttons then start for 2 seconds. For example A and B and start, to swap A and B buttons. if you wish to also swap C and D pres C and D and start for 2 seconds again. (This is only configurable via the controller). To reset the swapping, enter the code again, or hit reset.
- Hotkey: Pressing and holding START (2 seconds) will trigger a button combo. By default no Hot Key is set. You may configure this combo for a hot key in front-ends like Retro Arch. Use the API to set this combo. Simply hold the combination of button(s) you desire and press the HotKey API button. Once that has been done, that combo will fire when you long press (hold for 2 seconds) the start button. Only the first row of buttons (i.e. a,b,x,y,l,r) are supported. To disable this feature press the HotKey button with no combo held down. The default is unset so it will not work until it has been set in the API tool. This feature sine 3.30 now supports a home button hot key. If any hotkey is configured and the hotkey is pressed (start for 2 seconds) with select at the same time, the adapter will press the HID button ID (19) currently assumed to be the home button in the general mapping. You can configure the start button as the hotkey if this is the only hotkey configuration you want. To do that press start and click the HotKey button. Then anytime you press, select + start for 2 seconds will fire the home button. This will not work for controllers that do not have select. Note that a mode or Z trigger is considered select.
- Alternative mapping: Currently there are two mapping modes for most controllers. These are for those that like mixing and matching controller with emulators and like controllers mapped in other ways. The default layouts are at the bottom of this page with the alt. mappings in blue. The alt. mapping is set via Z + C or L + R and then using the d-Pad for the mode. Currently, and if a controller has an alternative mode, the d-pad up is default and down is the alternative. Left and right are reserved for potential future alternative mappings. Example; With a Saturn controller you may press both Z and C along with the down d-pad for 2 seconds to enter the alternative mapping mode or L and R along with the D-pad direction. Note that with a TG16 or PC-FX controller that combo would be down with III and IV.
In general, the 4-Play and Gamer-Pro are capable of detecting your controller type within one to three seconds of it being connected to your system via USB or when swapping controllers. With the exceptions listed below, you should not press any buttons during hot swapping or connecting your controller initially. Plug in your controller of choice and then plug in the 4-play or Gamer-Pro via usb. Wait for the USB tone without pressing any inputs. During Hotswap, just give it 3 second before using the controller. If you bump analog buttons it is ok, they will not effect detection. If verification is needed, open your control panel in Windows and navigate to the controller section to ensure it is attached and working. If you plug in the adapter to your computer without a controller attached it will go in to Atari mode and remain in this mode until reset is hit or the device is unplugged. Plugging in a none Atari controller will have no effect or uncharacteristic behavior when the adapter is in Atari mode. Hit reset to re-detect.
Atari, Mattel Intellivision, and similar controllers have no active electronics. These controllers are merely switches, one for each button. There is no way to detect such a device unless you hold down a button during connection. If unable to detect the controller type, 4-Play and Gamer-Pro default to the Atari mode. Thus, the following buttons must be held down while connecting these specific controllers: you may also connenct the controller, hold down the instructed button(s) and hit reset. Remember to give it 2-3 second to read the controller.
Third-Party Sega Genesis 6-Button: Start Button (seldom to never required)
ColecoVision: Right or Purple Button (SAC)
Intellivision: Both bottom side buttons.
3.0 has a new advanced feature to allow the forcing of a controller mode. In some cases you may not want or need detection and just have the adapter assume the attached controller type. If this applies to your particular needs, this is set via the API TOOL. You can lock the device to this mode if desired. Devices like the MC Cthulhu or coupling the BB with other adapters is where this comes in handy.Note that not all controllers work with this and some are grouped require some detection.
This mode is used for Atari and like controllers that really have no electronics in them. Once in Atari mode there is no way to detect a new controller. So, to leave this mode you must press the reset button. When you first plug in the 4-play or Gamer-Pro, any ports without a controller plugged in will default to Atari mode.
If your port seems unresponsive or does not show up in the USB controller list, a bad flash or HID corruption may have occurred. You can repair the port by entering safe mode and re-flashing. To enter Safe Mode, unplug the 4-Play or Gamer-Pro. Press and hold down the reset button on the port you wish to repair. Plug the 4-Play/Gamer-Pro in without releasing the reset button and proceed in flashing the port. If you are having troubles holding down the button and have a psx or jaguar dongle you may use this trick by shorting the pins with a paper clip (French 'Trombone').
Single-Player Mode for the 4-Play
The white arrow in this image indicates the port that becomes active in Single-Player Mode. The mode is toggled via the DIP switches on the base of the 4-Play unit as follows: Do not read the labels on the DIP's themselves, follow the sticker.
There is a reset/upgrade button beside each port on the 4-Play. During normal use it works as a reset button, forcing the unit to re-detect the connected controller. If you hold it down however, it tells the port to go into upgrade mode. When you release it, it will go back to normal operation. To upgrade firmware, you must first hold down the reset/upgrade button. The first time you do this, your system will indicate, "BLISS-UPDATOR hardware found." Make sure to let the OS auto-driver installation finish before letting go of the button. For upgrades, you can use the API tool, the new BBFlasher, or the older HIDBootFlash v.1.0, all found in the Download Section. To flash the device with the flash tool follow the steps below. The Gamer-Pro is also equipped with this button. The API and BBFlasher are simpler interfaces.
Step 1: With the reset/upgrade button still held down, select "Find Device."
Step 2: Specify your firmware.hex file.
Step 3: Still holding the reset/upgrade button, click "Flash Device."
Caution: Do not release the upgrade button during firmware flash as you may cause a bad flash and be forced to re-flash the port.
Step 4: Release the reset/upgrade button to return to normal operation.
Low Level API Mode. (For advanced users)
Please refer to the online documentation to use this feature.
The LLAPI uses the already available USB lines. To invoke the API you simply bring both d- and d+ high with external or internal pull ups. This condition will not cause any abnormal condition to existing USB hardware so it’s safe to use in both cases. When the Gamer-Pro or 4-Play detects the condition, it will go in to LLAPI mode. So this can be asserted via software or hardware in your connecting device.
Global button mapping and layouts.
For convenience the most popular controllers are now graphically displayed for quick reference. For greater detail visit global mappings. The following images are based off the HID windows assignments. Bliss-Box has 24 HID buttons available. Some controllers can make use of the alternative mapping(seen in blue).
To visualize this, its best to think of the HID as a standard controller that does not change.
d-pad's all map to HID d-pad
select maps to HID (5)
start maps to HID (6)
the 4 main buttons to HID (1-4)
secondary buttons to HID (7,8)
tertiary buttons to HID (9,10)
quaternary buttons to HID (15,16)
Blue button numbers indicate alt mappings
notes in red are when the mapping was introduced.
Images provided by Don "Furluge" Scherig
__special firmware notes __
Once flashed the GP should work on a any Switch.You must hit a button to wake it up after it was plugged in. It is emulating a 3rd Party controller and with some modded firmware ( like Atmosphere ) you may need to load a sysmod. SX-OS didn't need this.
Mapping: We tried to make most controllers map up but if there is one that is not working, and an alt mapping does not fix it, let us know. To use alt mappings see above.
N64 emulator: This one requires a mapping. You use the Alternative mapping (2) -- (L+R and d-pad down, hold)
The N64 buttons will operate just like they do on the N64 console, except for the following combo presses:
C-right will not activate if you're holding the A button and vice versa
C-up will not activate if you're are holding C-down and vice versa
Switch navigation with the N64 controller:
Once flashed the GP should work on a Ps3. Start and select should act as the ps3 button. Rumble is supported on other controllers as the large motor.
Once flashed the GP should work on a xbox original. the PS2 pressure button will work with xbox pressure buttons as does dual rumble motors. Rumble is supported on other controllers as the large motor.
HID is, for the most part, trouble free. Use normal USB troubleshooting techniques to fix any devices that aren't correctly detected. Unplugging the USB, using another port, or restarting the computer is a good place to start.
Third-Party controllers in general should have no problems, however they are not always designed the same way as the original manufacturer intended. Some might work on the console but not with the 4-Play or Gamer-Pro. For example, most Mad Catz Nintendo 64 and Nintendo GameCube controllers work but Mad Catz Sega Dreamcast controllers do not. See the compatibility list for more info.Bliss-Box only can guarantee OEM functionality .
Please contact support if a specific emulator is giving you trouble or if you still have issues after reading the FAQs below.
Will the Gamer-Pro and 4-play work with my emulator?
Unless an emulator does not support HID, it will work. Bliss-Box does not have control over what an emulation author does. As long as they fully support HID, everything will work. Development teams are quick to resolve issues to ensure full functionality. Some older, DOS based emulators do not work with HID. If you have trouble, contact the emulator author and work with them to get it resolved. As for the advanced features this is all relatively easy to develop but may emulator developers shun support for one type of adapter. The good people at RetroArch are supporting everything where possible but the individual projects are not so friendly.
Why are there only 3 ports?
A1. The switches are wrong. Do not read the switch values (on/off). Follow the picture and match it up correctly.
A2. You may have a bad flash, try safe mode.
A3. Make sure there is not a driver conflict and that the driver finished loading.
A4. In many rare cases shipping can cause damage to a port. (contact us).
Why aren’t some of my buttons working?
A1. Reset the device.
A2. Is this an official gamepad? If not support could be added. (contact us).
A3. Some connectors may need replacing. If you feel the connector is faulty, it is replaceable (contact us).
A5. Does the controller work? Old controllers can be dirty or worn out, test on the console.
Why am I getting random nonsense inputs?
A1. The firmware will attempt to auto detect, so make sure your controller is plugged in when you connect the USB. Do not press buttons during detection (1 to 3 seconds after plugged in) unless required.
A2. Is this an official gamepad? If not support could be added. (contact us).
A3. Some Sega Dreamcast and Nintendo GameCube controllers might act this way (contact us).
A4. Reset the device.
Why isn’t my Coleco number pad working?
Reset the device, the adapter is in Atari Mode. Make sure to hold down the button as indicated in the Controller Detection section.
My SNES or NES makes the + go left when I hit a button, what's wrong?
Reset the device, the adapter is in Atari Mode.
Why aren't my sega X Y Z buttons working?
The controller may be in 3-Button Mode. Hold down the Start button and reset.
Why do I have more buttons on the HID window than my controller has?
This is normal; it is for compatibility. The adapter can not hold al possible layouts so there is only one. It will not affect game play or setup.
Why does my Guitar Hero guitar have the left button (button 13) held down?
The port is in normal Sony Playstation mode. Keep the Guitar connected, and hit the reset button.
What do I do if my controller works but it isn't included on the Compatibility List?
Great! contact us and tell us what it is and the model, so we can add it!
If my controller isn't on the Compatibility List, will it work?
It might, give it a try! If it doesn't, we can probably update our firmware so that it does!
Can you make my control work even if it's listed as not working?
contact us! We're willing to bet we can make it work and add it to our firmware.
How can I force Windows to detect my ports in a specific order?
Use the API Tool. There is a menu Item for setting the port order. Requires 2.0 or higher.
All of my ports are named the same?
Use the API Tool to configure the port order. Requires 2.0 or higher.
My Atari Paddles are jumpy.
If your cable does not have a round dot on the tag, consider buying the updated cable. If you do not wish to purchase a new cable use an Extension Cable. Paddles also may require cleaning.
ePSXe won't let me assign inputs.
Go to option in the menu bar and Uncheck "Auto Load PPF files enabled.
can I use my own or other cables with Bliss-Box devices.
We do not have any logic or prevention in place for cables, you are welcome to use what you like. We put in a lot of effort in to ensure the cables will not cause harm to the device or a controller. We recommend you use approved cables. It is always wise to know what you are buying, more info here
The Bridge Connects interfaces with a device and sends controller data to a console or other USB device. The Bliss-Box Gamer-Pro (GP, GPjr, GPA) and 4-Play are USB devices that are intended for a USB host. However in the same way the BlisSTer works, all Bliss-Box devices can speak a universal protocol over two wires. The communication can take place over the USB lines without disturbing USB hardware. When you connect the Bliss-Box Bridge to a Gamer-Pro, it begins sending controller data at a fast rate of 500us per request. That is twice as fast as the fastest USB poll-rate. The Bridge takes this data and then speaks to the console. The console now controls the polling rate (typically 16ms) and while the console waits for the next poll, the Bliss-Box gathers the payload.
So what does this mean? It means you can use any controller you want, on any console...
Please know that there are limitations, if for example a game wants to spam the real controller for data, and does not relax, the Bliss-Box will not have time to reply (its not a real controller, it's emulating it). This is never really needed on a console without good reason (i.e. light guns). Though we have seen this happen in some menus and in some the games like Game cube's 007. Up to this point, games tend to poll regularly, so no problems during game play. If this does occur, this will prevent the Bridge from working, thus some peripherals (i.e light guns) can not be emulated. If a compatibility chart is needed, it will be hosted here. So far, in beta, this has not been a concern. In the few cases as pointed out (007 menu) it only causes slight glitches. If your game is not working, we need to know because we can not possibly test every game on ever console 😉
So you have a Bridge, a Gamer-Pro or other LLAPI device, and ton of dongles and controllers now what? Well, here is what, lets play! The first thing you need to ask yourself is are you an old school gamer or a new school gamer. There are two main ways to use the Bridge 1) Console mode or 2) USB mode. Obviously some older console use USB but we had to draw the line somewhere. The Bridge can not hold all USB information on its tiny chip but It can for non USB console. So first pick one. You can always re-flash if so desired.
Console mode - In this mode it's a detection process like the Gamer-Pro. Plug in the controller to a LLAPI device like the Gamer-Pro, then plug it in to the Bridge flashed with the console code. Now you can use it on a console. When you plug it in to a console it powers up, and does its logic. Power-on->Detect controller-> detect console-> emulate... Give it a few seconds to do this before you go pressing buttons, three should do it. Note the special modes below in this documentation.
USB mode - As of now there are some pre set modes. The Ps3 mode is a HID device. It works on most all usb devices. Xinput is also a flashable mode, and there are special modes for many devices like; Play-Station-Classic, Switch, Xbox, and more. With USB you need to pick the one you want and flash it.
Changing modes.At this time you must use a command line tool. The firmware links will be listed below. As well as the tool. Plug in the Bridge via the provided dongle, press the boot loader button once and let go, erase and flash.
***Bliss-Box has a new front end for DFU, if you would like to try it out, grab it from our download page. The new BB Flasher flashes all Bliss-Box Products.***
At this time the flash files are kepthere. Always use the latest version unless you want to experiment or are experiencing troubles. the DFU page for flashing ishere (If you have issues use 0.90 that was the latest version working on all Windows Os's) If you have problems with the DFU let us know. Please understand we do not maintain it. If flashing is not working you can use the --force option when erasing then retry the flash. This is not something you want to do often, so use it only to free up a suborn device.
To flash, plug in the provided HDMI dongle. Plug the USB end in to a computer with the flash tool. finally press and release the white button on the side of the Bridge.
You only need to know two commands erase and flash. you must erase before you flash.
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase
dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash bridge.hex
The Bridges is powered up by the console unless otherwise specified. When first plugged in (if using a non USB console) it will detect the console. During this time you should not be using the controller. Otherwise, the Bliss-Box may mis-detect its controller. The best rule of thumb is to wait 2 seconds after you plug it in. If something does not work, unplug the Bride from the console and plug it back it waiting 2 seconds.
If you find the USB does not fit well in to the Bridge a little bit of scotch tape will go a long way. Try one or two layers on the back side. Do not use it on both sides! This is common with some female usb connectors in cable form.
Supported Consoles: (Note this list will grow as consoles are added to the firmware) Links are to come once firmware leaves beta.
|USB based||Non USB based -download-
|Latest for the following found here
The D.I.Y cable info will remain here even after the manufactured cables are made.
Any breakout board should work and we will keep a list of option here.
The image reference will be of thistype:
If you prefer the spread sheet guide it can be foundhere
All console ports are console facing.
In all cases the power line is the highest voltage provided form the console. For example PlayStation has both +3 and+7or GC has both +3 and+5. The yellow wires (if needed) will be the secondary power, almost always 3 volts.
The Bridge is intended to be used with any LLAPI compatible device. When used with Bliss-Box you do have all the Bliss-Box features such as turbo buttons, button swapping, alternative mapping, and more.
NOTE: because some console have a slow start up time, the Bridge may need to take some time before the console wakes up. Once the Chain of adapters is connected, allow it 3 or 4 seconds to get ready.
The Bliss-Box Gp and 4-Play have built in alternative mappings modes that the Bridge can use. You can also change between them if desired. Refer to the GP/4P documentation for more information. The Bridge knows the console, and also the controller you are using. When you swap out a controller or first plug in the Bridge to a console it will look for the controller type. For example, if a diamond controller is detect and a 3/6 button console is in use, it will auto activate the alt mappings mode. If L and R are present, the north most button on the diamond controller becomes the middle top 3rd row. L is the first and R is the 3rd. The West, South, and east button are mapped to 456. This images shows the mapping arrangements.
Console Specific Information
NES: The NES should treat all game pads as if it were a NES pad. For Arklanoid paddle mode, it detects movement on one of the analogs. Note that the console requires that game pad to be in the player 2 port. No Gun, R.O.B, or Power pad support at this time.
SNES: The SNES should treat all game pads as if it were a SNES pad. For SNES Mouse games, it detects movement on one of the analogs. The Right most stick is for low sensitivity games. It also reacts to the absolute position. If you stop moving the analog stick the mouse will stop moving. The Left stick is for higher sensitive moments such as Arkanoid. If the stick is all the way left the game will think the mouse is still moving left as with right movement. The L and R button suppress analog reading. So if you only want to read from the left stick and not have the right stick interfere, hold down the left trigger (like-wise; use the right to suppress the left analog). A is set to the mouse left button, and start is set to mouse the right button. If a controller is in digital mode, or has no analog sticks or dials, the game will not look for the analog data and assume its a SNES pad.
N64: At this time the game assumes a N64 pad is being used. Future peripherals may be added. Any digital controller will output the D-Pad to full analog movement. If you are using a 4 button controller the button at west and north ( y,x) can be used to change the D-Pad operation. If west (y) is being pressed the D-Pad is mapped to the N64 D-Pad, if north (x) is being pressed it's mapped to c-buttons. When a 6 button controller is in use the layout is the same as a N64 (3 top buttons, 3 bottom buttons) and D-Pad is not used.
3D0: When connected via a d-pad only controller, the Bridge will emulate an a digital mode. When an analog controller is plugged in, it does the same and will become an analog controller if the left stick is exercised. If you need to kick back out of analog mode, use the Bliss-Box reset. If the controller has a digital analog mode, you can use that to toggle back and forth. Most all 3d0 games will ignore inputs if you attach an analog controller. So it is for this reason, that the default mode is digital. There is no mouse support as there is no clear advantage. Mouse support could be added.
GC: At this time the game assumes a game cube pad is being used. Future peripherals may be added.
Saturn: When connected via a d-pad only controller, the Bridge will emulate an a digital mode. When an analog controller is plugged in, it does the same and will become an analog controller if the left stick is exercised. If you need to kick back out of analog mode, use the Bliss-Box reset. If the controller has a digital analog mode, you can use that to toggle back and forth. Many Saturn games will ignore inputs if you attach an analog controller. So it is for this reason, that the default mode is digital. For mouse operation There are 3 modes; forced, dials, and dedicated. Any controllers such as the pippin, wii uDraw tablet, or DJ HERO, are assumed a mouse and will only work for mouse games. Controllers that have a dial or slider control (such as a paddle) will assume to be a mouse, and any analog controller can use force mode. To enter force mode, press A.B.C and then dpad down. Once that 4 button combo is seen, you are in mouse mode. If you want to exit this mode, reset the Bliss-Box, unplug the controller, or toggle to digital controller mode. Emulating the mouse with a analog stick, although possible, is quite difficult and not commandeered. Both modes (dial, and force), watch for max limits. When you hit the limit of motion (stick/paddle all the way left, or all the way right) it tells the game your still moving the mouse. Otherwise the controller would stop moving mid way in the game. The dedicated mode controller (listed above) do not have limits. Note about digital pads; most all controller do not have 6 face buttons with an L and and R like the Saturn does. Most all Saturn games use A,B, ad C. The current mapping are a 4 face button controller maps Saturn A,B,X,Y respectively leaving out C and Z. So C and Z are accessed via L and R. in "most" Saturn games L and R are secondary buttons so to access them, use d-pad up and C for R and dpad up and Z for L Some controller have no select so it was not used. Here is a mapping example.
If you wish to emulate the twin sticks with a 4 button controller you may do so with this combo at any time. up + + the 4 face buttons. A Bliss-Box reset or down + the 4 face buttons with exit this mode. Since there is no way to detect a twin stick and since its just seen as a normal remapped digital pad that combo is needed. This only works with diamond based controller likes SNES. The buttons act as the second stick and L and R in this case are mapped like the Saturn. This also works for analog diamond based controllers like DC. If you have a dual analog controller and have entered this mode, It will act like the twin sticks. A good example of this is the PlayStation twin flight controller but any dual analog will work.
Sega Gen: At this time the game assumes a game Sega pad is being used. Future peripherals may be added.
Wii: Support for the wii mote and all Nintendo based mini consoles are supported. Nintendo did not intend for the consoles to use more then 3.3 volts or much greater poll then 20 mA. As such, the controller port can not power the devices for the Bridge setup. Cables must be made with an external power source. The wii firmware supports all the analog features of the enhanced (hi-res) wii protocol. the older non enhanced mode is not supported at this time. A cable Key is required for this mode.
Atari/7800/arcade/SMS: The Bridges has support for 7800 and atari consoles. The cable does requires a key and there is a force no paddle mode. The force no paddle mode is for the atari flash back consoles that detect paddles. In this mode 7800 button will act is always on (turbo) and it recommended not to be used or unplayable in this mode on a 7800 console. With this mode you can also connect the bridge to a arcade cab with up to 12 buttons. This also includes Atari 2600 and Sega Master System. These are both just like an arcade one button or direction per wire. The jumper (force no paddle mode ) is required for SMS as indicate above. When in SMS mode and using any analog stick you can operate the paddle. To do this, just press and hold any trigger button like L or R shoulder buttons. This tells the game to read the analog stick ( both right and left will work). If you attached a paddle, it will detect and work like the HPD-200.
PlayStation 1/2: The Play Station mode will detect if the console can support DS2 or DS1 and the console can set the analog digital mode. At this time all 4 pads are supported (DS1,DS2,Digital,Flight). Future release may support other peripherals.
Jaguar: At this time the only support for Jaguar is the normal digital pad. Many attempts to emulate the rotary were made but because of CPU limitations, there is no support for multi threads to allow reading the BB while it replies to the console and sadly interrupts do not match the requires rise-time to emulate the multiplexer. There is no planned support at this time. Keypad and all buttons are fully supported. Analogs are converted to digital so you can use pads like the 5200. The pro controller is also support if you attach a 3 or 6 button layout controller. Also if the controller does not have a keypad but does have L and R, it will map those to the pro L and R as well.
TG16 / PCE: This is a digital pad only console. Both 2 and 6 button modes are supported. When you press the extra buttons, the Bridge tells the console you changed it./ So if you play a game that does not support a 6 button mode, pressing a 3rd, 4 ,5 , 6th button will also not work. Though for any 6 button game this works out fine. Both PCE and TG16 use the same code, so wire up to your choice. There are adapter for one to the other on the net. Analogs are converted to digital. So you may use analog controllers.
Intellivision: This is a digital pad only console. It has a full keypad, 2 buttons on each side ( 3 actions two are shared ), and a 16 directional disc. The keypad is supported using any other keypad controller. The top buttons are the same physical button and both left and right buttons work ( so 3 total). the enter maps to the lower right keypad or the start button. The clear maps to the lower left keypad button or select. All 16 directions are support via any analog controller. when using a D-Pad, only 8 are used.
Atari 5200: ( in the works) All keypad keys and side buttons are supported, as well as the analog stick. This mode forces UDLR mode as it would be useless with digital controller otherwise. This means d-Pad will work.
CD-i: The digital pad uses the same protocol as the mouse, and AFAIK there is never a reason to tell the console we are a mouse. The gamepad does accept analog data, it just never was made as an analog pad. So analog gamepads will act like a mouse and the d-pad will act like the intend CD-i d-pad. Controllers like the pippin will work best for mouse based games. There is also a tablet device but no games support it that I know of. So nothing fancy is needed with this mode. If you want a fast d-pad movent on the screen and do not have an analog controller connected, press start to enable fast mode.
CD-i: Gamepads and mice are supported.If the adapter detects a device that is like a mouse it will auto enable it, if you wish to toggle in and out of mouse mode you must press and hold all 4 face buttons and press up or down (Gamepad/mouse) respectively. At this time no rumble or other packs are supported.
Advanced Programmable Options.
The Bridge can be programmed with additional options from the Bliss-Box Flasher. To access these option check the Advanced Options. These options are all set to defaults if not otherwise changed. These options are actively being developed so check back often. Here are the current options:
Peripheral Mode: You can force the type of controller and by pass detection. This may prevent inputs so enter this mode when you know what you need, or just use the auto detection.
PC Poll Rate: By default the fastest mode is used. This option will slow things down. Console set their own poll rate, normal 16ms. Because they poll when needed, not on intervals. So this option is only for a PC based firmware.
Invert Y access: AKA flight mode. This mode can by handy for any game where you need inverted y axes. Both sticks are supported independently.
Dead Zones: Added a Dead zone option for all but xbox, x360, and xinput. Controllers that support two sticks share the dead zones. The reason X based consoles do not support dead zones, is because they already do this on the host. Dead zone options range from 0-9, 0 being none (default) and 9 being %50 of the range is unable. A good number for most sticks is 3.
The Bridge can be loaded with a firmware of choice. USB consoles have their own respective firmware and the non USB base consoles are all under one firmware. Once that is loaded simply plug a LLAPI capable device in to the USB female plug on the Bridge and then plug the Bridge in to the console of choice. The white button on the Bridge is a toggle from operation to bootloader. One press puts you in boot loader operation. This will not work on a console and will cause the device to stop functioning. If you feel that happened, unplug it from the consoles and plug it back in. That can also be used as a Bridge reset. The bootloader mode is for firmware uploads via a PC. The Bridge will know if a LLAPI capable device is unplugged. If you are experiencing troubles with the controller, consult the LLAPI device operation. The Bridge is a pass-thru device and does not mean a non functioning controller is on the Bridge end.
The MiSTer is a small community of people sharing love and respect for older hardware and wanting to keep enjoying these older systems. We have produced a board for the MiSTer that performs as well as any of the current USB board options and extends a few new features and options that will come to be rather attractive to many MiSTer fans.
The main attraction to the BlisSTer is a thing we call LLAPI (Low Level API). The Normal Bliss-Box products that adapt almost any wired controller to USB is integrated on this board. Though USB is not the only option. With some help from a developer Jamie AKA Rysha, few cores are taking advantage of the LLAPI. This board is going to allow you to communicate with a controller at it's own interrupt level. Your MiSTer cores while used with the Bliss-Box will allow any controller to be used the way it was intended to be used on the console itself. The LLAPI even has the ability (although not implemented yet) to directly communicate with memory packs or rumble motors in the very same manner the console does. Although that is a bit ahead of its time, it has the ability to do it.
Bliss-Box has engineered a way to communicate over USB with a proprietary two wire interface. The protocol, when engaged, tells the USB to stop communicating. The information is then routed via the serial (USB 3.0) port on the MiSTer board and read directly into the selected core. Interestingly this protocol was not designed for this purpose. It was not until Jamie saw the connection and came up with this plan to communicate directly with the controllers and cores.
The board is equipped with two reset buttons for the Bliss-Box ports.These are to reset the ports and update the firmware. We are keeping the remaining 5 USB ports for the user’s discretion. This board is a direct fit for the existing USB board including the micro USB location that many people have been using a bridge with. The power in can be sent back out to the MiSTer if desired and the toggle switch kills power to the entire board including the output. The switch also has a manual jumper that can be used to operate the power remotely.
- Bliss-Box logic is inside, auto detection and all that goes with it.
- Use of the best retro game cables money can buy. Our authentic cables just work.
- Open and friendly! BlisSTer is a complicate but open Board. Any factory can make it.
- Same form-factor as the USB hub add-on board.
- Added features to the existing hub board like a power switch and LED extenders.
- Although not required, when paired with LLAPI, it's like the real thing.
- Lag free, there is no polling outside the normal sync rate, the controller is read when the core wants it.
- An internal gateway to the controller with no USB overhead.
BlisSTer FAQ and stat-up guide
BlisSTer is an open board as are the cables. See details here.
LLAPI mode requires the cores as it has not been accepted by the main FPGA maintainer. Though USB mode does work natively with the main MiSTer cores. LLAPI cores found below.
Spacial thx to Resb1t, Rysha, Twotone8, and Sorg.
Bliss-Box accessories are available in our store under cables.
Cables - Our cables are strong and durable and made with high quality parts. Lots of testing is done to make sure they first with many controllers. Although it is not possible to made every variation we strive to make it work. Our cables are open hardware and you may make your own cables. This also lends it’s self to counterfeit knockoffs that other companies will make. This has already happened and you can read more about it here. There have been numerous reports on the inferior quality of these cables. If you are experiencing these issue give us a try!
Break Out board - This is a HDMI breakout board. Handy if you wish to use Bliss-Box cables for other intended purposes. This can also be used for the special Virtual Boy and PC-FX adapters. There is also an Arcade mode for 10 button 4 direction use.
Combo Fix - This adapter fixes the lack of rumble support for the PlayStation controllers only needed for the Gamer-Pro (the Gamer-Pro jr. and 4-Play do not require this). This adapter also smooths are atari paddles.
Level Shifter - To be used with the BlisSTer board. This will let you use the 4-Play or Gamer-Pro as player one on the MiSTer serioal port for LLAPI support. At this time only player 1 is supported.
Our Money-Back Return Policy:
We want you to be fully satisfied with your purchase. You may receive a full refund for any unsatisfied orders with in 15 days minus the shipping costs. A restocking fee may occur for any non defective refunds past the 15 days of the arrival shipment. You must return it with all original packaging. If you checked out with Paypal please note, PayPal adds a 2.9 percent refunding fee. Please contact us for RMA eligibility for any defective items purchased on Bliss-Box’s page past 15 days. Any RMA within 90 days is covered free of charge. Any repair beyond 90 days can not be covered. NOTICE: Bliss-Box cannot support or endorse any modified firmware. If you are running a custom or modified firmware it will void your warranty. If an RMA is submitted and an unofficial firmware is loaded onto the device, Bliss-Box reserves the right to apply a fee upon returning the unit to you. Bliss-Box does not extend this policy to any refurbished items.
The item must be returned in good condition, in the original box, and with all parts and accessories for a full credit. So issue a refund, please send email to: [email protected] with the title “RETURN: [purchase order#]” where purchase order is the purchase number from the store. If the item was purchased via one of our resellers, first contact them. If purchased on our website you can find the purchase order number in your purchase email. If you have troubles locating the purchase order number please contact us via the same email.
Controller compatibility and protection.
Bliss-Box products are considered a use at your own risk type of adapter. However since it has stood the test of time, the risk is next to none and works rather well for what it does. If you own a controller and plan to use it on a Bliss-Box product, it would be wise to check the compatibility first. Outside of that, what protection does your controller have – you may be wondering? We had to draw the line somewhere so that lines falls on OEM or 1st party controllers. Those controller are the ones you get with your console. If it is not 1st party, your left to the compatibility list from the many users over the many years to trust.