Advanced Integrated Replicator
The A.I.R stands for advanced integrated replicator. And does just that, it replicates the LLAPI signal. It can turn LLAPI into a wireless, LLAPI , or USB signal. It allows for LLAPI or wireless input. So there is no receiver or sender, it's all in one and should work without and switching. You can set up to 16 channels and the USB output does HID or Xinput. You can power it from a battery or USB power supply. If you power from a USB port, make sure there are no USB data wires, or it will think it's outputting to USB.
The Story
The story is one of those notable stories that need to be said. This story will not help you use the product or help you decide to buy it but it does explain why it looks the way it is. The A.I.R began way back in June of 2018. Bliss-Box started on a new project to send and receive data wirelessly. After a year of work it was evident it will work in sender or receiver mode based on the inputs/outputs it sees. The Nordic nRF24L01+ was used and the PCB layout began. There were a lot of antenna design issues and power problems .
There was a continuous problem with the antenna and code that seemed to stumped many experts and after a lot of back and forth (3 years) it was solved. In around 2021 the code worked and the signal was good and strong. Bliss-Box had used a co-company to design the board based on the logic but after all the revisions and fixes the PCB grew. Initially it was 1 inch long and at the end nearly 3 inches.
When Bliss-Box asked the PCB to be redesigned and components to be put on the back of the board we were told it can not be done. Regardless of all the pushing, Bliss-Box has to step back from the co-company.
Bliss-Box does not stand down from a challenge, never has and never will. So it was taken on internally to redesign the board. This type of board requires a lot of work and many revisions to get under way. Since Bliss-Box does not have an internal fabrication factory we left that to the co-company to deal with. Every step of the process ended on the same note, not possible, done wrong, will never work.
With great perseverance, the final design was ready in 2023. It performed very well but there were more issues that needed debugging. Going back to the software end of things to work out the bug, took some time but in 2024 it was resolved. At this time Nordic dropped the chipset support so it was done without support. The online tools for board creations also crashed and all projects were lost.
bliss-Box had to face its first canceled project as the source files for the PCB were not recoverable. Later it was discovered that edits could be made to the PCB but they had to be done blindly. A few of these blind attempts were made and at the end of 2024 the project was back on track. We gave it a go run thru fixed up a few bugs and the A.I.R was ready for production.
TLDR
The production of this project was deemed not possible because too many custom packaging and case items needed to be created. Thus, this is the second time Bliss-Box is going to make a hand made, garage based project. The only part of the A.I.R that is done on the line, is the PCB. So it will not have the fancy project look and many will not be made. If you own one, you are 1 of 200 that do. It may have another run but it is not planned.
How to
You should recve this handout. 
This adapter uses the dfu for flashing. Go to the download section and get the BB Flasher if you want a user interface, or use the cmd dfu flashing process.
Features.
Jumper config
Channel select
There are 16 possible combinations 0-15 channels. As long as they match you are good, if you buy more than one, change the channel on the second pair to another combonation.
The board has LED indicators, a battery plug, an update button, and the antenna connector.
1) LED indicators on the board will show the mode it is in.
Initially both LEDs blink together to test the LED.
RED outputs
Solid red means USB found
Fast Blink LLAPI found
Slow blink Wireless found
rapid blink searching for mode.
GREEN input
Solid LLAPI found
Slow blink wireless found
rapid blink searching for mode.
2) The battery connector is one way to get power. A second option would be a USB battery pack. If you need an internal replacement battery we suggest a (L) 40, (w) 20, (h) 10 cm with at least 500-700 mAh. This will fit anything smaller is ok.
3) The antenna connector, if you pull up on this you will rip the wireless module off the board. Leave it connected.
4) Update button. Once pressed you will be in update mode. If the LEDS stop during use this button may have been pressed. There should be a bumper inside to avoid the battery from pushing on this button.
Battery Life
This will vary from controller to controller. A Playstation DS2 will last about 1 hour of continuous game play where a NES may last 3 days. Also by default rumble is disabled. You can enable it in the BBFlasher but not all controllers will work if there is a continuous rumble. Any game that occasionally rumbles will be ok, but will also reduce battery life. If rumble is important to you the regulation resistor must be changed (see hacks). 
Another concept to keep in mind is that if an A.I.R is plugged into a console and the battery jumper is in place, it will be charging. So when your remote sender gets low, you can swap them, then game longer. 1 hr should give you a good charge. So you should be able to just keep gaming and swap them back and forth. Obviously it depends on the current drain you put t through.
Current ratings a must read.
You do not have to understand ohms law here but you need to have an idea of numbers. All consoles have a current rating they can support and the device you connect needs to be lower. This info is for you to troubleshoot if this is the issue you are experiencing. If you need help just reach out to us.
Some of this information could be wrong, or incomplete. It's only based on the web
| Console | max current | notes |
| Game Cube | 100–150 mA | 5v pin is used not 3v |
| PS2/PSX | 700-mA | 8v pin is used |
| Saturn | 100–150 mA | |
| Snes | 100–150 mA | |
| N64 | 100-150 mA | |
| Dream Cast | 800 mA |
The PSX DS2 seems to draw the most current and we can not list them all, so it will server as a base line. You also need to add them all up, i.e ( Bridge +GPA+PSX_rumble = 92 this is too close to 100 and will gause issues for game cube._
| Device | current user |
| Bridge | 33 mA |
| GPA | 28 mA |
| PSX DS2 - digital mode | 7 mA |
| PSX DS2 - analog mode | 17 mA |
| PSX DS2 - Rumble | 31 mA |
| A.I.R | 45 (50 when charging bat ) |
Setups
Here are a few suggested setups for better illustration. Images were simplified to give an overview.
Support
The A.I.R's input works only with LLAPi devices. If you own a 4-Play it must be set in LLAPi ( single player ) Mode. Any device that speaks LLAPi should in theory work. The A.I.R is not limited to Bliss-Box. The LLAPI Signal is illustrated on our info page. Support for LLApi is available.
Assembly / Disassembly.
|
Step 1
Insert the PCB at an angle |
Step 2
Push PCB into place. |
Step 3
Ensure it's all the way in. |
|
Step 4
Connect the battery |
Step 5
Push LEDs into windows. |
Step 6
plug the battery in following this orientation. |
|
Step 7
Make sure the wire is tucked underneath |
Step 8
Antenna wraps around the battery |
Step 9
Slide cover in to place |
Completly assembled.
Troubleshooting:
The Green LED is flashing and RED is off: The A.I.R can not find the input adapter. Make sure the input adapter is working first.
No LEDS are On, they don't blink initially: The battery may have pressed the update button. You may need to open it up and make sure the bumper is in place that prevents the battery from pressing the update button.
Hacks
The A.I.R uses a boost chip to get 5v but the higher the voltage the lower the current (ohm's law). There was not enough time in production to add a potentiometer as ideal as that would have been and the resistor used targeted 5v. To achieve that a 75k resistor was used. After some testing it was determined that a lower resistor is better for a number of reasons.
Firstly why 5v? This was simply because the adapter used USB typically 4.5-5v and all devices were designed to work that way. Thus to ensure compatibility it was best to stay in that range. USB spec says 5v but that was not always true. Nevertheless that is the only reason for the choice of 5v.
What value will you get? Most all A.I.R units will be 4v. The resistor was lowered or stacked to hold 51k. This was the value that performed the best.
On the bottom of the A.I.R box you will find the resistor code.
examples
200k + 75k
51k
56k
The reason for that is that some device needed more current so the voltage had to be dropped. As a result most devices will not work well with rumble. It was learned that the voltage could be as low as 3.5v using a resistor value in the 40's or even 30's. That will allow rumble to work but may cause compatibility issues with some controllers. If you have the skills you can remove the register(s) and replace with a lower value.
Look for the resistor in the middle bottom areas labeled r109 just above c190.
